Question 1

How do I calculate how many tiles I need?

Accepted Answer

Start by measuring the length and height (for walls) or length and width (for floors) of each area in metres. Multiply to get the square metreage, then add 10 percent for wastage on straight layouts and 15 percent if you are running tiles on a diagonal or using patterns with directional cuts. Buy slightly more than you think you need, because dye lots vary between production batches and a small top-up order weeks later may not match. We are happy to do quantity take-offs from your floor plans: bring them through to our Kramerville showroom or email them to our team.

Question 2

What is the difference between rectified and non-rectified tiles?

Accepted Answer

Rectified tiles have machine-cut edges that are perfectly square, which means they can be laid with very narrow grout joints (typically 2 to 3mm) for a clean contemporary look. Non-rectified tiles have softer pressed edges and need wider joints (4 to 5mm or more) to allow for slight dimensional variation between pieces. Rectified tiles cost more but produce a more refined finish, particularly with large-format sizes. Non-rectified tiles are perfectly suited to smaller formats, Victorian patterns and any application where a traditional grout line suits the design.

Question 3

Which tiles are suitable for shower floors and wet areas?

Accepted Answer

For shower floors, choose tiles with a slip rating of R10 or higher (R11 is preferable for walk-in showers without a tray), and stick to smaller formats (typically 100x100mm to 200x200mm) so the fall to the drain works correctly. Porcelain is the material of choice for wet areas because of its low water absorption (under 0.5 percent) and high density, which resists staining and cracking. For shower walls, large-format porcelain or ceramic tiles work beautifully and minimise grout lines. Our team can guide you through suitable ranges from our wall tiles and bathroom tiles collections.

Question 4

Can I use the same tile on the floor and walls?

Accepted Answer

In most cases yes, and it is a popular contemporary look that visually enlarges the room. The tile must be rated for floor use (wall-only tiles often are not strong enough for floor traffic), and the floor variant needs a suitable slip rating. Many of our porcelain ranges come in coordinated wall and floor formats, sometimes in the same size and sometimes in matching colours across different sizes. This wrap-around approach works particularly well in compact ensuites and walk-in showers where continuity of surface makes the space feel calmer.

Question 5

How do natural stone and porcelain tiles compare for bathroom use?

Accepted Answer

Natural stone (marble, travertine, slate) brings depth, variation and a luxurious tactile quality that no manmade tile can fully replicate, but it requires sealing on installation and periodic resealing, and is more vulnerable to acidic cleaning products. Porcelain is virtually maintenance-free, available in highly convincing stone-effect designs, and offers consistent batch-to-batch sizing. For high-traffic family bathrooms we usually recommend porcelain; for a feature wall or a low-traffic guest ensuite where the visual quality of real stone matters most, natural stone is worth the additional care.

Question 6

Do you supply trim and finishing pieces?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We stock matching trims, edge profiles (in aluminium, brass and stainless steel) and bullnose pieces for most of our tile ranges. These are essential for finishing exposed tile edges around niches, steps and external corners with a clean professional look. Discuss trim selection with your tiler at the point of ordering, because they need to be on site before the tiles are laid. Visit our Kramerville showroom to compare trim profiles against your selected tiles and lock in a coordinated finish.

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